Textile Technology

Frontmatter

1. Introduction

Abstract

For millennia, humans have been using fibers and textiles. The most common product is clothing, which is also the most important in terms of amount of production. Textiles were and still are being used for medical applications, such as a wound dressing made from silk in Roman times. Today, parts of organs, blood vessels, and ligaments are produced using textile structures. Without fiber-reinforced composites, modern aircraft production would not be possible, and in the house and road building industries, fibers and textiles are increasingly being used (Fig. 1.1). Filters are made from textile structures using a wide range of textile materials ranging from polymers (like polyester) to steel.

Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, Burkhard Wulfhorst

2. Raw Materials

Abstract

Textile fiber materials can be divided into natural and chemical fibers. As a result of the industrial revolution and growth of the world population, the consumption of fibers worldwide has continuously increased (Fig. 2.1). The consumption of textile goods per person has risen as well. Citizens of industrial countries consume about 20 to 25 kg of textile materials per year. Since 1950, a major increase in the share of chemical fibers can be observed. In 1994, for the first time in history, the world share of man-made fibers exceeded that for natural fibers and is still growing. The steady increase in the world population will provoke an increase in production of natural and chemical fibers. While predictions differ quantitatively, Fig. 2.2 gives a good estimate.

Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, Burkhard Wulfhorst

3. Principles and Machinery for Yarn Production

Abstract

Staple fiber yarns can be produced from natural fibers (Section 2.1) as well as from chemical fibers cut to staple length (Section 2.2). In contrast to the chemical fibers, which can be manufactured industrially in almost every desirable length and shape, the various natural fibers are available only in specific lengths, titers, and cross sections, and with specific crimp and stress-strain behavior depending on their type and origin.

Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, Burkhard Wulfhorst

4. Principles and Machinery for Production of Woven Fabrics

Abstract

A woven fabric consists of two or more thread systems that are perpendicular to each other: warp threads and weft threads. The warp threads run in the machine direction and are wound on the warp beam in the desired number and thread density (Section 4.4).

C. Lenz

5. Processes and Machines for Knitwear Production

Abstract

Several thousand years ago, knitwear was manually produced by means of small sticks (knitting needles). In 1589 the English Reverend William Lee invented the manual weft-knitting machine with a 16-fold greater productivity than a manual knitter. It was the first mechanized stitch-formation process. Modern developments of knitting machines led to very high production outputs together with a high variety of patterns. The production of these machines is 500,000 times higher than that of a manual knitter.

V. Schrank, A. Hehl, K.-P. Weber

6. Processes and Machines for Nonwovens Production

Abstract

According to DIN 61210, nonwovens are defined as “fabrics that consist entirely or to an essential part of fibers.” Fibers that define the character of nonwovens “are randomized or orientated in a certain direction.” The connection between the fibers is affected by positive (interlacing) or nonpositive (conglutination) means.

A. Gräber

7. Braiding Processes and Machines

Abstract

According to the German Industrial Standard DIN 60000 (1969), braids are defined as “two-or three-dimensional fabrics with even thread density and closed fabric appearance whose braiding threads cross each other in diagonal direction to the selvedges.” The first braids were hand braids. At least three hair cords are necessary to braid a plait as shown in Fig. 7.1 (left). Later the production of bobbin laces became an artistic skill.

Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, Burkhard Wulfhorst

8. Noncrimp Fabrics

Abstract

In recent years, the importance of fiber- and textile-reinforced composites (plastics, concrete) has grown considerably. The textile structures of these composites ab-sorb the applied forces. According to the results of calculations, the load-absorbing threads have to be inserted in the lines of forces. This is achieved by an optimized construction of the textile structures. New textile structures have been developed that meet these demands and allow spherical deformation (drapeability). In particular, textile structures produced according to the principle of warp knitting belong to this group. They are called noncrimp fabrics (NCF) (Fig. 8.1).

A. Schnabel

9. Textile Finishing

Abstract

Through finishing, textile raw materials receive technical wear or easy-care characteristics, handle, and appearance, which are determined by technological requirements as well as fashion. Examples are the color and the handle of a dress fabric, the print design of a bed covering, the soft pile and the gloss of a velvet, the stain-rejecting and mothproof finish of a carpet, or the waterproof coating of a tent. In addition, the desired dimensions of the final textile, for example, final width, length, and weight per unit area, are obtained during finishing. Special manufacturing properties are achieved, such as sewing behavior and cutting ability.

N. Saeger, M. Hörr

10. Processes and Machines for Clothing Manufacture

Abstract

The German Industrial Standards (DIN) provide the details on the manufacture of ready-made clothing (DIN 61400, DIN ISO 4916, DIN 5300).

The manufacture of ready-made clothing comprises the industrial production of clothing, home textiles, and technical textiles. The manufacturing of ready-made textiles includes the following production steps: separating (cutting), joining (sewing, gluing, welding), and forming. The traditional method of joining is the sewing of pieces in two dimensions, although many products of the sewing industry are three-dimensional. This is the reason for an important restriction in automation that will be explained in detail in Section 10.4.

V. Niebel

11. Technical Textiles

Abstract

Textiles are divided into clothing, household fabrics, and technical textiles. Clothing and household fabrics (curtains, textile wallpaper, upholstery fabrics, carpet, and floor coverings) seem to be easily defined.

P. Schuster

12. Textile Testing

Abstract

Textile measuring and testing processes are used to characterize fibers, rovings, yarns, textile structures, clothing, and carpets. Tests on fiber- and textile-reinforced composites are in a special field. These textile properties are important for trade (such as terms of delivery) and allow a comparison of the product quality of different companies (for example, USTER-Statistics).

Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, Burkhard Wulfhorst

13. Disposal and Recycling of Textiles

Abstract

In 2012, the German textiles and clothing industry, including textile machine manufacturing and chemical fiber production, had 170,000 employees and a total sales of about 80 billion € (about $105 billion). This makes it the second biggest consumer goods industry in Germany. In addition, there are about 280,000 employees worldwide working for German textile companies. In 2013, textile and clothing exports reached 25 billion € (about $32 billion) with imports reaching 35 billion € (about $45 billion) (Gesamtverband Textil+Mode, 2013).

Thomas Gries, Dieter Veit, Burkhard Wulfhorst

14. Simulation

Abstract

Simulation is normally used in order to analyze systems that are hard or impossible to describe using systems of explicit equations. In particular, this applies to highly complex dynamic systems such as most textile machines and processes.

Y.-S. Gloy

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